Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Telluride
My night at the Minecart Motor Lodge was rather enjoyable, apart from forgetting to turn on the heat. Breakfast consisted of grab-and-go yogurt, coffee, Pop-Tarts, and coffee. Nothing spectacular. For a reasonably priced accommodation, though, it was a nice reprieve from yesterday’s travels.
Birding started in the parking lot, of all places. A flock of House Sparrows stood guard in the snow-covered courtyard, and a handful of Starlings flew overhead from the surrounding telephone pulls. A lone Merlin held vigil in a distant deciduous tree. As I finished loading the car, eight Turkey Vultures flew overhead, a nice salute to my journeys today.
Before I could go sightseeing, a stop at the local Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW) office was in order. I had read that to access the Waunita Watchable Wildlife Area, I needed a state wildlife area (SWA) pass, or a hunting license. Since I will not be collecting any birds for trophies (unlike the menagerie of taxidermied specimens in the office), I opted for the SWA pass. The process was straightforward, and the staff were knowledgable and friendly.
Finally, on to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park!
In all honesty, I only recently learned about this national park in researching the sage-grouse and the surrounding areas for birding and wildlife locations. In winter, most of the trails and roads are closed due to snow and ice (obviously), but luckily, the road leading to the visitor center—South Rim Drive—was plowed and well maintained. En route to the visitor center, Tomichi Lookout provided early previews of the canyon. The real show was unveiled behind the center.
Photos fail to do the Black Canyon justice. The canyon is considered one of the deepest, steepest, and narrowest in the country…or continent, I forgot. Regardless, I felt a little like Gilgamesh looking into the abyss to the canyon floor, the Gunnison River flowing below.
I spent about an hour or so here, trekking through two short trails near the center. Birds, and other wildlife, were scarce, except for some Juncos and Common Ravens. A Spotted Towhee called in the Gambel Oaks. I bid adios to the canyon and continued my roadtrip to Telluride.
The scenery between the national park and Telluride, a roughly 1-1.5 hour ride, changed from plateau to stunning mountains in an instant. Every curve of the road demanded awe! If I could’ve pulled over to admire the landscape, the trip would be at least four times as long.
Telluride opened op under the watchful gaze of surrounding peaks on three sides. It reminded me of an early mining town, which it was, but it also brought back memories of small villages I visited in Iceland last year. A day festival was underway, with part of Colorado Avenue blocked off. Parking the car in a subterranean lot (on-street parking was few and far between), I walked around the town. I grabbed a matcha latte then, for a late lunch, some white bean chili at The Butcher and The Baker.
Most of the well-known trails were closed for the season, so a leisurely stroll looking at the historic sites around the town took place. Along the way, obviously, were birds.
In one corner of the town near the museum congregated most of the species for the day. Steller’s Jays, American Robins, Evening Grosbeaks, Mountain Chickadees, and Dark-eyed Juncos fluttered about the trees. As my luck would have it, I was sans camera.
Walking south, I headed for the river, but only after I remembered to grab my camera from the car. Results proved fruitful, as I saw Pine Siskins and, the birding highlight of the day, an American Dipper!
Great success!
This definitely put me in a good mood, even when I proceeded to drive the two hours through snow, dusk, and mountains to Gunnison. I managed to dodge Bighorn Sheep, Mule Deer, and Elk.
Now, in a motel outside of Gunnison, I am winding down. Tomorrow, weather and conditions permitting, I will be able to see the Gunnison Sage-Grouse!
Good night!
