ICELAND

A BIRDING SAGA

2024 June 28th to July 7th

INTRODUCTION

Iceland…the land of fire and ice…

That’s how the travel books describe this island in the north Atlantic. Nestled below the Arctic Circle, this country has become a popular tourist destination over the past few decades, thanks to improved accessibility via airlines and cruises, aggressive campaigns to attract visitors, and, of course, the countless reviews, videos, etc., of adventure-seekers and “world travelers” who are self-described “discoverers” of an island-nation that was settled as early as 870 CE. Over the years, I had seen the programs and articles highlighting Iceland as a major destination, but, because of the hype and tourism, did not feel the need to go. Only until this year, when I have some vacation days to burn at work, I decided to overcome my reservations and, on a whim, fly non-stop to Reykjavik in June.

Writing this blog entry almost two weeks after my trip does place me at a disadvantage of not recounting every detail. However, it does allow me to summarize and focus on the highlights of my journey around the Ring Road.

And, of course, I can recount all the birds I saw….

July 28th

The first unexpected fact about Iceland for me was its proximity and accessibility to the USA. Flying non-stop from Chicago-O’Hare takes about 6 hours, which is marginally faster than a comparable flight to Anchorage. My entry point was Keflavik (KEF), located near the tip of the Sudurnes Peninsula. The airport was rather small, not unsurprising given the size of the country. A short walk brought me to the customs counter, where the office behind the glass looked every bit a Viking: A large, muscular, long-haired man who looked far too cramped in his cubicle. Obtaining my entry stamps and picking up my luggage, I proceeded to the rental car country to get the keys to a 4x4. Of course, I had booked the wrong car. I had reserved a stick-shift! After some confusion was straightened out, I got a (more expensive) automatic Toyota RAV-4, and made my way to the car lot, where I was greeted by the famous summer winds of Iceland.

Did I go straight to Reykjavik to experience the modern and cosmopolitan capital home to roughly two-thirds of the entire population of Iceland, to visit the cultural sights, such as the Hallgrimskirkja, Harpa Concert Hall, Sun Voyager Statue, or the Settlement Museum? Did I have a hot dog?

Of course not! After a direct red-eye flight from Chicago, I immediately headed to the old Gardur Lighthouse to bird!

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An Afternoon at McKinley Beach, Milwaukee